Smith Rock Send List!

30 06 2009

So, before going to Smith Rock, I posted a ticklist of the routes I wanted to do. I ended up doing a lot of them, plus plenty not on the list. So here’s everything I lead, in order of increasing grade (R=redpoint, O=onsight, F=flash; sport routes in italics, trad routes in bold):

Hop on Pop, 5.8 (R) – always a classic

5 Gallon Buckets, 5.8 (R) – another classic

Light on the Path, 5.9 (R) – ditto. watch out for the bird crap, though, in one of the upper huecos (gross!)

9 Gallon Buckets, 5.9 (O) – only 5.9 to the first anchor

Helium Woman, 5.9 (F) – this route is more fun than the Watts guidebook gives it credit for

Moonshine Dihedral, 5.9 (R) – although I’d already onsighted this one many years ago

Captain Xenolith, 5.10a (F) – not quite as fun as its neighbor, Helium Woman

Cosmic, 5.10a (F) – the easiest knob route at Mesa Verde, not quite as fun as the harder classics

Cruel Sister, 5.10a (O) – gosh, this got pretty wide for my little hands at the top, bring a #4 camalot (or two!)

Chicken McNuggets, 5.10b (R) – the start is deceptively tricky

Wedding Day, 5.10b (O) – this route is not very fun

Screaming Yellow Zonkers, 5.10b (F) – a classic! love the knobs!

Badfinger, 5.10b (R) – fun!

Rim Job, 5.10b (O) – this one is very cool, despite looking intimidating-ly thin

Wildfire, 5.10b (O) – super cruiser above the initial tight corner

Cornercopia, 5.10b (R) – the last 4 are all on the Wildfire Wall – what a mecca for 5.10 and 5.11 trad climbs!

Barbecue the Pope, 5.10b (R) – maybe not the best route to climb in the sun (oops)

On the Road, 5.11a (R) – this route is incredible! don’t miss it! maybe my pick for the best 5.11 at Smith…

A Woman in the Meadow, 5.11a (F) – pumpy!

Pure Palm, 5.11a (R) – by far the hardest 11a I did this trip…

Vomit Launch, 5.11b (R) – this may be the best (sport) 5.11 at Smith

Moondance, 5.11b/c (R) – this was good training for Pure Palm…

Sunshine Dihedral, 5.11d (O) – my crowning achievement 🙂

Still many projects to get back on, but consider this a list of recommended routes at Smith (except maybe for Wedding Day, which wasn’t that awesome). Hang tight for some blogs from Luke (right now I have the advantage since I’m DONE WITH SCHOOL WOOO).

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Lizzy’s Smith Rock Ticklist

10 06 2009

I am SO excited about my ticklist that I thought I’d share it with you all. I haven’t been to Smith in an incredibly long time (5 or 6 years, I think) and last time I was there, I wasn’t doing much leading yet, so I have a lot of things to get back on. Hopefully this will be a good warm-up week for my Squamish rampage. I mean, I am hoping to start climbing 5.12s (somewhere other than Indian Creek) at some point, but I think it will be good by doing this 5.10/5.11 sending spree. If 5.12s happen, I’ll be psyched. If they don’t, I’ll still be psyched. 😀  So, without further ado, here’s the list:

Wooden Ships/The Gullies

Blue Light Special 5.11a bolts

Toxic 5.11b bolts

Chicken McNuggets 5.10b bolts

Vomit Launch 5.11b bolts

Morning Glory Area

Overboard 5.11a/b or 5.11c bolts

Magic Light (the 5.11a part) bolts

Gumby 5.10b bolts

The Dihedrals

Karot Tots 5.11b gear

Sunshine Dihedral 5.11d gear (this is the main event!)

Moondance 5.11b bolts

Christian Brothers

Wartley’s Revenge 5.11b gear

Barbecue the Pope 5.10b bolts

Mesa Verde Wall

Screaming Yellow Zonkers 5.10b bolts

Moons of Pluto 5.10d bolts

Bad Moon Rising 5.11a bolts

Monkey Face

Monkey Space 5.11b bolts

Lower Gorge – West Side

Wildfire 5.10b gear

Badfinger 5.10b gear

Gruff 5.10a gear

On the Road 5.11a gear

Pure Palm 5.11a bolts

Cornercopia 5.10b gear

Last Chance 5.10c gear

Blood Clot 5.10b gear

Crack-a-no-go 5.11b gear

Cruel Sister 5.10a gear

Lower Gorge – East Side

Master Loony 5.11a gear





VOTE!!

4 11 2008

Today is a big day for our country. I think this Starbucks ad its too true so do your part and go vote! 

This is also our 100th post!! It’s been over a year now and it has be great experience. I think the best thing about blogging is the network of climbers that you can connect with. 

Along that vein checkout this funny post by the ClimbingNarc on the election

Following the Favorites page we have a new Ticklist page. Lizzy and I hit slighly different topics with our lists. Both outline climbs that drive us to get better and climb harder.

Enjoy,

Luke