Favorite Routes

Over the years, we’ve climbed our fair share of sweet routes. Here are our favorites (only including routes we’ve actually sent, so this list may evolve as we tick some of our goals).

Lizzy’s Top 10

  1. Sunshine Dihedral, 5.11d, Smith RockThis is the gorgeous dihedral that defines the Dihedrals area. If you are a girl (i.e. small fingers) and are comfortable stemming and placing small gear, this is a must do!
  2. Coyne Crack, 5.11+, Indian CreekThis is a fantastic route for girls. It’s a little tight at the start, but then it’s a spectacular splitter hand crack. I only wish it was longer. Strange to think it used to be rated 5.12. It’s not.
  3. Even Stevens, 5.11b, IndexI love Index and this is one of the best routes (that I’ve done) there – cool sequential moves on nice granite.
  4. On the Road, 5.11a, Smith RockThis is an excellent, varied crack climbing offering the best the Lower Gorge has to offer.
  5. Hen-ry!, 5.11b, Red River GorgeSmall, balancey, crimpy moves – perfectly my style. I flashed this one (although I had the boys terrified that I was going to fall 😀 )
  6. West Face, North Early Winter Spire, 5.10d, Washington PassThe setting and the pitches of this one are fantastic. The North Cascades are beautiful and the final 10b pitch is MONEY!
  7. Vomit Launch, 5.11b, Smith RockCool moves on great rock! Punch it to the anchor before the pump overwhelms you!
  8. Bird of Fire, 5.10a, J-TreeThis is my favorite route in Joshua Tree! The crack is straightforward and climbs beautifully.
  9. Diedre, 5.8, SquamishThis gorgeous 5.8 dihedral on perfect rock goes on forever. I had an incredible time even though there were pine needles everywhere.
  10. Southeast Buttress, Cathedral Peak, 5.6, Tuolumne Meadows – Although I epic-ed the first time I tried to do this with some boulderers (we never found the route…) I had a great time simuling the whole climb in one pitch with Luke and belaying with the most bomber nut ever on the summit. Although this is often some people’s intro to alpine multi-pitch routes, I think it’s probably best enjoyed as we climbed it, moving fast and light (and pass grumpy old people!). At the top, the view is incredible! Consider Eichorn Pinnacle (5.4) afterwards. And look out for pikas and marmots – so cute!

Luke’s Top 10 Single Pitch Climbs

  1. Equinox, 12c, Joshua Tree – My longest term project and likely my hardest send. This splitter line just begs to be climbed. A proud finger crack that demands power and commitment ot the sharp locks.
  2. Mercy the Huff, 5.12b, Red River GorgeFun hard moves separated by good rests. Steep jug hauling at it’s best.
  3. Technosurfing, 5.12b, Rumney – Coming back to send this summer 08 was amazing. Superb rock with varied movement and tricky cruxes. A central route on one of the most beautiful crags in the country.
  4. Hot Rocks, 11b, Joshua Tree, – Visually appealing with technical fingerlocks and an exciting finish.
  5. Insomnia Crack, 5.11b, Sucide Rock Putting this one together after so many years was rewarding. A wide assortment of crack technique is required.
  6. The Exasperator, 5.10c, SquamishLed as one 50 meter pitch this climb just keeps giving. Fingers forever with a short thin crux.
  7. Rob Roy, 10c R, Red Rocks – An excellent undertaking on the Alchol wall. Gear only where you need and spicy enough to keep it exciting. Such amazing holds!
  8. Crime of the Century, 5.11c, Squamish – A tough onsight proving it is important to really try hard! A thin finger crack that is super sustained with good gear and tiny locks.

Luke’s Top 10 Multipitches

  1. The Original Route on Rainbow Wall, 5.12a, Red Rocks – Not only does this climb follow a beautiful dihedral up a picture perfect face, but it offeres pitch after pitch of tricky and rewarding climbing. A really standout route in a world class area.
  2. Positive Vibrations, 5.11a, Incredible Hulk – This climb takes a striking line up the Hulk and offers endless jamming in a beauftiful alpine setting.
  3. Auto Da Fe, 21 (5.11a), Mount Arapiles – This slab masterpiece is what climbing in Victoria is all about. Long runouts, small gear, and a prominent position on the watch tower face.
  4. The Vampire, 5.11a, Tahquitz Rock – Three pitches of challenging and varied climbing. A SoCal classic that lives up to the hype. A splendid day on the rocks and a proud onsight.
  5. Levitation 29, 5.11c, Red Rocks – Killer position, continuous difficulty and exciting climbing make this a classic.
  6. Cloud Tower 5.12-, Red Rocks – Excellent crack climbing with two strenuous crux pitches, a Red Rocks must do!
  7. The Cathedral Route 5.11d, Mt. Charleson. –Phenomenal climbing on limestone features that takes an exciting path up Cathedral Rock.
  8. The Megaplex 5.11c, Pine Creek – Super fun granite climbing that takes an exhilarating path up the mustache wall. Devious and sustained crimping throughout.
  9. Third Pillar of Dana – Regular Route, 5.10b, Tuolumne Meadows – Unusual and exciting decent to the base of the climb, amazing views and bomber alpine granite.
  10. The Yellow Spur, 5.9, El Dorado Canyon – My first long route leading all the pitches. A great experience and a true adventure. Almost being blown off the crux pitch was quite sensational.


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