Reflections on 2009

As the year comes to a close and climbing trips seem a bit less frequent, I feel it is important to reflect.

As a climber I like to focus on progress and usually push myself to increase my abilities.  While I have been climbing for about ten years, I have only been setting goals for the last five. I have most of these written down in various word documents and it is interesting to look back and see where I was at.

Was a certain level of climbing intimidating? Did I tend to try only a particular style of routes? What was my most proud accomplishment of the year?

Lizzy had a good idea to put events in chronological order to make everything more readable. Here are some of my important events of 2009.

• Pinky finger pulley rupture at the climbing gym.
• Strained ring finger  bouldering on pockets in Bishop.
• Competed in my first trail races since high school (25k, 15k, and 22k).
• Had a very fun and relaxing trip to Indian Creek. (No grade chasing)
• Regained bouldering strength and met up with college friends in Joe’s Valley, Utah.

On Planet of the Apes in Joe’s Valley

• Climbed a number of diverse 5.11’s in Joshua Tree.
• Continued improving and took a first trip to Zion and onsighted all but one pitch of my first 5.12 multi-pitch, Sheer Lunacy.
• Climbed Vahalla at Suicide Rock. (Stonemaster!)
• Got taught a lesson in fear and footwork at Smith Rock.
• Started off a great alpine season with an ascent of Positive Vibrations on the 4^th of July.
• Climbed two awesome 5.11+ bolted multipitches, The Cathedral Route at Mount Charleston and The Megaplex in Pine Creek Canyon.
• Continued alpine climbing all summer and brought Lizzy to the Hulk to finish off the pitches I had missed on Positive Vibrations.

On the Incredible Hulk with Lizzy!

• Did a new 5 pitch route on Mt Langley and a new finish variation on the Keyhole Wall. (Yeah first ascents)
• Had an amazing trip to the Needles and climbed Atlantis and Spook Book!
• Re-climbed The Vampire at Tahquitz and stepped it up by leading The Flakes and following Stairway to Heaven.
• Climbed my first Yosemite 5.11 (The Tube) and 5.12 (Underclingon).
• Started training for Freerider by climbing the Free Blast.

Climbing high on El Capitan

• Climbed the Original route on Rainbow Wall with one take. Likely my best single day of climbing all year.
• Climbed El Capitan via Freerider over 4 days. Free climbed almost 75% of the pitches.
• Had an amazing trip to Indian Creek and climb my first handful of 5.12 crack routes.
• Finished the year in Sunnyvale ready for more trips to the Valley.

I think the most important thing this year has been a change in attitude. In the past I have been bent on doing things in a particular style. Climbing onsight and not wanting to get on climbs that I couldn’t do first try. This limited me mentally and I wouldn’t push myself as far as possible. This year my positive relaxed attitude really helped a lot and my climbing has noticeably improved.

I really hope to get in to a good routine in 2010 with more regimented training to prepare for climbing El Cap again as well as finding a few hard projects to keep me motivated.

Happy New Year’s Eve!

–   Luke