Smith Rock Send List!

30 06 2009

So, before going to Smith Rock, I posted a ticklist of the routes I wanted to do. I ended up doing a lot of them, plus plenty not on the list. So here’s everything I lead, in order of increasing grade (R=redpoint, O=onsight, F=flash; sport routes in italics, trad routes in bold):

Hop on Pop, 5.8 (R) – always a classic

5 Gallon Buckets, 5.8 (R) – another classic

Light on the Path, 5.9 (R) – ditto. watch out for the bird crap, though, in one of the upper huecos (gross!)

9 Gallon Buckets, 5.9 (O) – only 5.9 to the first anchor

Helium Woman, 5.9 (F) – this route is more fun than the Watts guidebook gives it credit for

Moonshine Dihedral, 5.9 (R) – although I’d already onsighted this one many years ago

Captain Xenolith, 5.10a (F) – not quite as fun as its neighbor, Helium Woman

Cosmic, 5.10a (F) – the easiest knob route at Mesa Verde, not quite as fun as the harder classics

Cruel Sister, 5.10a (O) – gosh, this got pretty wide for my little hands at the top, bring a #4 camalot (or two!)

Chicken McNuggets, 5.10b (R) – the start is deceptively tricky

Wedding Day, 5.10b (O) – this route is not very fun

Screaming Yellow Zonkers, 5.10b (F) – a classic! love the knobs!

Badfinger, 5.10b (R) – fun!

Rim Job, 5.10b (O) – this one is very cool, despite looking intimidating-ly thin

Wildfire, 5.10b (O) – super cruiser above the initial tight corner

Cornercopia, 5.10b (R) – the last 4 are all on the Wildfire Wall – what a mecca for 5.10 and 5.11 trad climbs!

Barbecue the Pope, 5.10b (R) – maybe not the best route to climb in the sun (oops)

On the Road, 5.11a (R) – this route is incredible! don’t miss it! maybe my pick for the best 5.11 at Smith…

A Woman in the Meadow, 5.11a (F) – pumpy!

Pure Palm, 5.11a (R) – by far the hardest 11a I did this trip…

Vomit Launch, 5.11b (R) – this may be the best (sport) 5.11 at Smith

Moondance, 5.11b/c (R) – this was good training for Pure Palm…

Sunshine Dihedral, 5.11d (O) – my crowning achievement 🙂

Still many projects to get back on, but consider this a list of recommended routes at Smith (except maybe for Wedding Day, which wasn’t that awesome). Hang tight for some blogs from Luke (right now I have the advantage since I’m DONE WITH SCHOOL WOOO).

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3 responses

17 07 2009
Shannon

Nice job Lizzy! Your trip report makes me want to get back to Smith, haven’t been there in too long.

17 07 2009
Ramblings of a Monkeygirl » Oregon Fourth of July Weekend, 2009

[…] sure it didn’t help that I was reading about @lizzy_t ’s trip to Smith Rock and her send list on her blog, Dream In Vertical, and I know some of it was just disappointment about not getting […]

6 08 2009
lstefurak

Suggested Routes from Luke:

S = Sport, T = Trad

Lion Zion 5.10c (S) Excellent crimping and not at all polished!

Last Chance 5.10c (T) Fingers Forever! (Yellow Aliens)

Pure Palm 5.11a(S) Holdless basalt stemming

Toxic 5.11b (S) – Steep (a-typical for smith) and a bit reachy

Wartley’s Revenge 5.11b (T) – Nice and steep but with funky gear.

Monkey Space 5.11b (S) Insane Exposure!

Freebase 5.12a (S) Sustained crimping

Torid Zone 5.12a (S) Steep Basalt Wrangling!

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