So, before going to Smith Rock, I posted a ticklist of the routes I wanted to do. I ended up doing a lot of them, plus plenty not on the list. So here’s everything I lead, in order of increasing grade (R=redpoint, O=onsight, F=flash; sport routes in italics, trad routes in bold):
Hop on Pop, 5.8 (R) – always a classic
5 Gallon Buckets, 5.8 (R) – another classic
Light on the Path, 5.9 (R) – ditto. watch out for the bird crap, though, in one of the upper huecos (gross!)
9 Gallon Buckets, 5.9 (O) – only 5.9 to the first anchor
Helium Woman, 5.9 (F) – this route is more fun than the Watts guidebook gives it credit for
Moonshine Dihedral, 5.9 (R) – although I’d already onsighted this one many years ago
Captain Xenolith, 5.10a (F) – not quite as fun as its neighbor, Helium Woman
Cosmic, 5.10a (F) – the easiest knob route at Mesa Verde, not quite as fun as the harder classics
Cruel Sister, 5.10a (O) – gosh, this got pretty wide for my little hands at the top, bring a #4 camalot (or two!)
Chicken McNuggets, 5.10b (R) – the start is deceptively tricky
Wedding Day, 5.10b (O) – this route is not very fun
Screaming Yellow Zonkers, 5.10b (F) – a classic! love the knobs!
Badfinger, 5.10b (R) – fun!
Rim Job, 5.10b (O) – this one is very cool, despite looking intimidating-ly thin
Wildfire, 5.10b (O) – super cruiser above the initial tight corner
Cornercopia, 5.10b (R) – the last 4 are all on the Wildfire Wall – what a mecca for 5.10 and 5.11 trad climbs!
Barbecue the Pope, 5.10b (R) – maybe not the best route to climb in the sun (oops)
On the Road, 5.11a (R) – this route is incredible! don’t miss it! maybe my pick for the best 5.11 at Smith…
A Woman in the Meadow, 5.11a (F) – pumpy!
Pure Palm, 5.11a (R) – by far the hardest 11a I did this trip…
Vomit Launch, 5.11b (R) – this may be the best (sport) 5.11 at Smith
Moondance, 5.11b/c (R) – this was good training for Pure Palm…
Sunshine Dihedral, 5.11d (O) – my crowning achievement 🙂
Still many projects to get back on, but consider this a list of recommended routes at Smith (except maybe for Wedding Day, which wasn’t that awesome). Hang tight for some blogs from Luke (right now I have the advantage since I’m DONE WITH SCHOOL WOOO).
Dream in Vertical 
Nice job Lizzy! Your trip report makes me want to get back to Smith, haven’t been there in too long.
[…] sure it didn’t help that I was reading about @lizzy_t ’s trip to Smith Rock and her send list on her blog, Dream In Vertical, and I know some of it was just disappointment about not getting […]
Suggested Routes from Luke:
S = Sport, T = Trad
Lion Zion 5.10c (S) Excellent crimping and not at all polished!
Last Chance 5.10c (T) Fingers Forever! (Yellow Aliens)
Pure Palm 5.11a(S) Holdless basalt stemming
Toxic 5.11b (S) – Steep (a-typical for smith) and a bit reachy
Wartley’s Revenge 5.11b (T) – Nice and steep but with funky gear.
Monkey Space 5.11b (S) Insane Exposure!
Freebase 5.12a (S) Sustained crimping
Torid Zone 5.12a (S) Steep Basalt Wrangling!