Sweet Gear Review: La Sportiva Miura VS

25 08 2009

I have been a follower of the La Sportiva Miuras (I have a pair of the unisex and women’s versions) for a long time. I got my original pair about 6 years ago and have resoled them 4 or 5 times now and they were still amazing (they now have an unfixable hole, so they are on the fast track to retirement, sadly). When I heard that Sportiva was coming out with a velcro version and the new P3 platform to help prolong the downturned shape, I knew I had to get a pair. With my small feet, it took a while before I could get my hands on a pair, but it was well worth the wait.

The Miura VS fits fairly similarly to my other two pairs of Miuras – it conforms perfectly to my foot. In my men’s Miuras, there is a little extra space in the toebox that my women’s Miuras and the Miura VS don’t have, but this doesn’t seem to have affected the performance. The 3 velcro straps are very good at tightening the shoe around my narrow feet (just as good as the lace versions), but much easier to remove quickly (i.e. well suited for bouldering).

Bishop Bouldering - Jan 09 - 231

Trying out the Miura VS on Sad Parrot (V3), Sad Boulders, Bishop.

I’d heard that the sizing of the Miura VS was about a quarter size (European) different than the original ones, so I sized down half a size – getting a 35, when my normal Miuras are both 35.5. The result is that the shoes are a bit tighter than my other Miuras, but not painfully so. I feel you would be wasting some of the power to not size down half a size like I did, but you should probably still try on a pair before buying (or get a pair with a good exchange policy) if you’re not already familiar with your normal Miura size.

What has really impressed me is the HUGE improvement in performance that comes from the shape and the P3 plaform. Although my old Miuras had always been great for technical edging and smearing, the VS bring it to a whole new level. On several problems in Bishop and Joe’s Valley, the Miura VS have allowed me to put an incredible amount of power on a tiny foothold that even my well-performing women’s Katanas couldn’t handle.

The shoes also come with the relatively new Vibram XS Grip rubber, which I’ve been very pleased with, although I’ve always been happy with the rubber that La Sportiva uses. I feel like I can usually compensate for less “stickiness” with better footwork and the extended lifetime of Vibram rubber (relative to softer rubbers) is really cost-effective in the long run.

Although I haven’t done much  heel-hooking in the new shoes, they have the same awesome heelcup as the original Miuras, so I’d guess they’d be just as good for heel-hooking.

Pine Creek - Aug 09 - 071

Enjoying the great edging of the Miura VS on the technical, small crimps of Window Shopper, 5.11c, Pine Creek Canyon.

Recently, I took the shoes on their first route (Window Shopper, 5.11c, Pine Creek). They were, again, fantastic, if a bit painful still, for standing on small edges. I didn’t really feel like I could smear in them at all, but they compensated for that by allowing me to stand on micro-crystals. Now I’m even more excited to wear these on other routes, since I love the kind with technical footwork on very small holds.

Perhaps the only decrease in performance is the fact that, since the shoes are so good at retaining their down-turned shape, they will not cross quite as well into hard crack climbing and multi-pitch climbing as my older Miuras (whose shape has mellowed out a lot) have. However, I expect many more great performances on boulder problems and single-pitch climbs requiring a lot of technical footwork.

Overall, I’d say the Miura VS is a must-have addition to the climbing shoe quiver of any Miura and/or Katana lover.

– Lizzy