Sweet Gear Review: Arc’teryx R320 Harness- Light is Right

7 09 2009

Memorial Day was just around the corner and I was in need of a new all day harness. I had been checking out the Arc’teryx WST harnesses for the past year and wanted to wait until the new Black Diamond harness came out before decided which to buy.

When I started multipitching all of my partners and I had the Misty Mountain Cadillac and I enjoyed having the beefy webbing and the 6 gear loops. In an attempt to get a similar harness I bough the even larger Yates Shield which had more gear loops than I knew what to do with.  I used this harness when climbing The Vampire and Cloud Tower in 2008 but found it to be way too bulky. I tend to sweat while trying hard and the thickly padded leg loops left bands of sweat around my pants.

At $125 the Arcteryx R320 is a big investment for a harness  and I was unsure that it could really live up to the hype. I had gotten Lizzy a R-280 for Christmas and she had been fairly content with the fit and feel but didn’t like the gear loops.  One of my good friends had taken an R320 up the Nose and raved about the comfort. Living in a harness for three days sounds like a good test to me.

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Getting ready to take some falls on Pure Palm in the Lower Gorge at Smith Rock.

Racking up for Sheer Lunacy in Zion, I had a lot of cams on my harness and could feel their weight pulling on the thin WST webbing but I was still comfortable. As the day wore on the harness stayed comfortable and my only complaint was that the cams tended to fall in front of my leg.

Spending a week climbing in Smith Rock in June I took only my R320 and was very happy climbing both sport and trad. On the hot days I could wear the harness without a shirt despite the super thin waist band.  At Smith I hang dogged for an extended time, took falls and even climbed a multi-pitch putting the R320 through a full suite of tests. I still had an issue with the gear falling over my leg so I ended up switching the orientation of the front two gear loops.

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Leading up Wartley’s Revenge with a full rack at Smith Rock

In July and August my R320 accompanied me on over 40 pitches of alpine climbing in the Sierra on the Incredible Hulk and Temple crag. The harness still is looking new and I finally felt ready to give it a review. Switching the gear loops, (so the angle of the loop tilts back) makes the gear sit much better for trad climbing, in my opinion, and I can easily fit 12 quickdraws and a double set of cams.

One of the initial reasons I stayed away from the R320 was the fit.  For a 5′ 8″ male I have relative large legs but a smaller (~30 inch) waist. I had to buy a medium to get a comfortable fit in the non adjustable leg loops. When I pull the waist band all the way tight I still have a little bit of room. This issue does not interfere with my climbing so it has not been a problem.  I have heard that the waist versus leg size  issue could be solved by trying the women’s R280, which I should have tried on before buying the men’s version. If it comes down to fit I suggest looking at both models.

Incredible Hulk - July 09 238

Sporting the R320 while climbing Postitive Vibrations on the Incredible Hulk

Overall the R320 is amazingly light and does not hinder your movement. The design of the gear loops is a bit floppy since they are plastic over webbing instead of a stiffer molded plastic (used in Petzl and Mammut harnesses).  A strange thing we also discovered is that the size of the gear loops is proportional to the size of the harness. Thus Lizzy has less space in her gear loops on the extra small harness compared to my medium.

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Getting ready to hike out from the Summit of Temple Crag. I had been wearing the harness for ~12 hours when I arriving back at the  base.

After around 100 pitches of climbing in the last four months my R320 still looks fairly new which was my biggest concern. I’ll make sure to either comment here or write another post to discuss the long-term durability after I have had the harness for a year. The only two problems I have seen,  on other R320’s, is that plastic part of the reversible gear loops can pop off.  I added a piece of electrical tape to prevent this from happening. As well the attachment point for the haul loop on a friend’s harness is getting pretty worn after a year or so of climbing. I expect this is due to abrasion on the back of the harness from climbing chimneys and descending from alpine routes.


  • Very lightweight and moves well with your body.
  • Comfortable to wear while hiking and descending from long routes.
  • Breathes well and is soft enough to wear shirtless.
  • Gear loops are reversible and large enough for a double rack of cams plus quickdraws.


  • Gear loops are somewhat floppy and the plastic can become detached.
  • Gear loops are proportional to the size of harness. The smaller sized harnesses have less room for gear.
  • Adjustable leg loops are only available on the A300a and the  X350a, the alpine WST harnesses.
  • Expensive: the R320 or R280 (women’s trad) are the middle of the range at $135. The S240 sport climbing harness is the cheapest at $99 and the alpine X350a clocks in at an astounding $159.

Feel free to leave questions or  comment about the Arc’ teryx WST harnesses.



Sweet Gear: New Reviews Coming Soon!

20 08 2009

2009 has been full of new gear at Dream in Vertical and we will be publishing  some of the reviews that Lizzy mentioned earlier in the year.  As well we just got two of the latest and greatest shoes from La Sportiva thanks to Backbone Media and Sara over at RockClimberGirl.

I am excited to try out TC Pro which seems perfectly suited for some of the harder multipitches I plan on climbing  later in the year.

The new Sportiva TC Pro designed by Tommy Caldwell featuring Vibram XS Edge rubber.

Lizzy will be testing out the Speedster and as a stiff shoe lover will provided a chance to try out the more sensitive end of the climbing shoe range.

The super sensative Speedster with the new 3mm Vibram XS Grip 2

Also after wearing the Arc’teryx R320 for many pitches from Zion, to Smith Rock and the Sierra I feel ready for a review.

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Wearing the R320 on a sub 20 hour C2C ascent of DarkStar

Also I will be doing a 1 year review of the Black Diamond Oz, C3 and the Petzl Reverso3.

This should add a bit more info to my previous post:

Sweet Gear Generation3: The Reverso, The OZ, and C3’s

Also be sure to check out some of our other Sweet Gear reviews:

Approach Shoe Reviews by Lizzy.

A General Rope Review by Luke

La Sportiva Miura VS by Lizzy

Patagonia DAS Parka by Lizzy

Patagonia R1 Flash Pullover by Lizzy

Patagonia Plush Pants by Lizzy


– Luke