Weekend Result – J-Tree 2, Luke and Lizzy 0

4 05 2009

Lizzy and I had a short and fairly fun weekend a J-Tree. The main result was a lot of soreness on Lizzy and my part. 

I wanted to climb More Monkey than Funky in addition to a bunch of other classics on my ticklist.  It seemed best to work from the hardest down and so after Lizzy gave Gunsmoke some valiant tries we went to find the Monkey. 

More Monkey than Funky is a 15 foot horizontal hand crack (#2 camalots) to a thin hands crux .75’s thinning to .5’s. You have to get your jams in and then swing your feet up into the crack. We decided to have lizzy belay on the ramp/ledge right below the crack so that I would have less rope drag and spaghetti once I got out the roof.  However when I first pulled on and stuck my right foot into the crack my left foot swung around to find balance and smacked Lizzy in the face. OOPS!

After taking, falling, placing some more gear, lowering and repeating this whole process about 4 times I had figured out all the moves and came back to the ground. The horizontal nature of the climb made cleaning all the gear a real pain so I decided to leave all the cam’s in each time to save energy for a pinkpoint.  On my 5th go I yelled my way to the top barely managing not to slip off the warm holds.  In the effort I strained my right bicep and did a number on both my shoulders… OOPS #2! 

The day had cooled down a bit and we went over to Hot Rocks which I had done while Lizzy was away in the fall. She tried it twice on TR and managed to get it in one fall on here 2nd attempt! This is a gem for sure and we will have to come back in the future so she can lead it. 

We have no photos so you can watch John Bachar doing a much better job than I on More Monkey than Funky which is the first of two solos in the following video.

In other news Lizzy and I will be taking a much needed weekend off to compete in the Xterra Malibu Creek Challenge Trail Run.  We have both been doing a bit of training and it should be fun to do another race!

Cheers,

Luke

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