Facing forward while looking back.

11 12 2008

This past Sunday on my 4th try of the day, after a nice nap, I lead Equinox without falls. In the same fashion as my previous attempts I preplace gear from TR and then clipped all the cams on lead placing one final cam before topping out. In the way that I climbed the route on top rope 3 weeks ago it flowed and felt perfect. My foot slipped once but I hit all the jams and made all the clips. Earlier in the day I refined my sequence and the new way worked! I reached the top a bit tired but not too pumped. Back on the ground I joked about doing it again since I felt so good. 


What a perfect splitter!

This route has been a big deal for me, a pure hard crack and a test of my endurance.  Sending this climb has been a big priority for 2008 but even though I sent I can’t stop thinking about it. I want to keep working on it even though, for now, I am done. It is a mental struggle to want something and invest all your time and energy. Training for the moves on Equinox, spending each weekend driving out to and working on it, visualizing the sequence and replaying all the moves. I am ready for a break from that routine, happy to have no definitive objectives, yet I still desire the redpoint.  I don’t want to have to make excuses about pre placing the gear to bring the climb down to my level. I want to have the mental and phsyical ability for a proper redpoint.  But I know with time fitness will come and I can wait until Lizzy starts leading Equinox before I start working on it again.


Back in November working on the Equinox.

The next few weeks should be interesting as success from a long term project sinks in. Dave Macleod has talked about an emptyness following a long term investment. I wonder if projecting Equinox was the way to fill a hole after I sent Control Freak back in September.  Will our trip to the Virgin River Gorge fill the hole that Equinox will leave?

No matter it has been an excellent season. After the summer season sport climbing we had an awesome fall in Joshua Tree.  The weather is far from cold but the day light hours sure cut into the weekend. I was up by 6:30 both Saturday and Sunday!

On Saturday morning I attened the Riverside Quarry Cleanup and saw many of the San Diego climbers from the gym. We made a big dent in the trash with multiple truck loads going to the dump. While I have only been climbing at the quarry for the last 18 months Stein tells me there has been a huge reduction of garbage. It was also fun to help build trails for a new area at the far right of the quarry called Schoolhouse rock. 

This new area, with freshly built trails, has slabby routes from 5.0 to 5.10+. This addition by Chris Miller and Louie Anderson gives a place for budding leaders to climb in a predomintantly 5.11+ crag. The routes range between a week old to just over a month old so they are still cleaning up. Be careful of loose rock since they not seen many ascents. 

Lizzy is out in the field so I am bouncing between partners for the weekend. Hopefully the weather will stay warm enough and I’ll get in some climbing. 





2 responses

12 12 2008
Climbing Narc

Nice work!

16 12 2008
peter b

I would love to do that route! Congratulations!

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