The Crack Routine

17 11 2008

Since J-Tree season started I have been thinking about Equinox. A pure line, a hard crack, a test of mental and physical perseverance.

I have been aware of Equinox since Lizzy found out about this crack about 3 years ago. Fresh off sending my first 5.12 sport routes I thought I had a chance when I first attempted to Top Rope this it 2 years ago October. The biting pain, the constant jamming, the non-existent feet was too much for me. I bitched, fell, and was relieved when I finally made it to the anchor cursing this climb. I was far from committed or ready.

Almost every weekend this season I have tried Equinox. This Sunday, on my 6th day of attempts I did it clean on TR. I arrived at the anchors without a pump and free from pain and doubt. I had relaxed, hit all the locks and made my way to the top unclipping the gear that I would use for a lead. I was hoping that it was the day, my day, to lead the route, abet on pre-placed gear. This would be a powerful first step to a future redpoint.

I had finally sequenced the first section and knew every lock, each body lean and powerful move. I knew the exit traverse, the foot holds and the bite of this vertical fissure. While my body was prepared my mind had yet to mature. I was afraid of falling on the gear, I clipped too early and I pumped out after repeatedly missing a clip. I tried again and again tearing much skin from my fingers but to no avail. In truth I was not ready.

The next three weeks I will replay the moves through my head, train hard on the campus board and wait with excitement for our next trip out to J-Tree. While I did not send I am moving in the right direction falling on lead and trying as hard as I could. I need to dispel my mental deamons and relax my next time on lead.

Despite the hot weather Lizzy and I had a blast on our quick day trip. Lizzy onsighted Touch and Go and made progress on her crux of Equinox. The rest of the weekend was spent watching movies. Quantum of Solace was mardignal but we had a great dinner out at Buca di Beppo.

Ciao,

Luke

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3 responses

19 11 2008
Julie

First off, I am bitter you did not call me this weekend when you guys were clearly in LA going to watch Quantum of Solace. All that desert stuff is the building I used to live in and I still have not gotten to see the movie. 😛 Not like I had time anyway sooo I’d probably just end up calling late like every other time (sorry!!)…good luck with the Equinox stuff. Sounds like you’ll get it soon!!

19 11 2008
lizzyt

Actually we were in San Diego this weekend. Which was good because I was totally oblivious about the fires until I was driving up into the gross cloud on Monday.

We’re going to Bishop this weekend, in case you and Josh are interested…

11 12 2008
Facing forward while looking back. « Dream in Vertical

[…] route has been a big deal for me, a pure hard crack and a test of my endurance.  Sending this climb has been a big priority […]

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