My Hardest Redpoint Yet!

5 08 2008

It was a short (the 2-day version), but successful weekend. Luke came to Pasadena on Friday night and we awoke early on Saturday morning to pick up Lukasz and Eli and head out to the Quarry. We arrived about the same time as Stein and the San Diego crew from Vertical Hold, although we ended up climbing at different areas.

We headed up to the Right of the Roof area with Lukasz and Eli, hoping to find some good 5.11s for me to work on. Luke started out by leading Ground Zero, which is 5.11b in the guidebook and called 5.10d by some locals. I decided to jump right into it and try to flash the route. I got to the crux, which involved a weird move in a little dihedral that was really difficult because I couldn’t reach the good part on one of the holds. After several tries, I fell and lowered, wanting to save my energy for something more doable and less frustrating.

Before the crux on Ground Zero

We moved a couple routes over to Redrum, a fairly short, bouldery 5.11c. Luke onsighted the route to put the draws on for me and I tried it out on toprope since my confidence was a little down after struggling on the “10d”. Although the moves were powerful, I was able to figure them out with a little helpful beta from Luke. The crux section involved a dyno to a tooth from a sloper, a difficult match on the tooth (because the place I caught it was the slopey part), a powerful transition to a sidepull, and then a balancey reach to a good jug, which led into fun 5.10ish climbing to the top. On my first lead attempt, I managed to figure out a way to statically do the dyno by using a small, hidden sidepull, but I fell trying to do the balancey reach.

Meanwhile, Lukasz was trying to do somewhat of a one-move wonder 5.12a, which was hard for him because it necessitated a lot of crimp strength. He finally made it to the top and Luke decided to toprope the route instead of leading something else so I would have time for another go on Redrum before the sun came.

Lukasz before the crux on his 12a

Then, it was go time. I calmed my pre-lead nerves and headed up the powerful moves, confident that I knew the correct beta and movement. I stuck the dyno move statically, transitioned over to the sidepull, used a hidden crimp another climber had told me about to balance myself and relax before focusing on the last reach. I hit it just right and pulled up to the no-hands rest, where I relaxed a little before heading off on the last bit of the climb. I knew all the holds to the top and redpointed the route! My first 5.11c redpoint!

Then we headed to the grand opening of the new Hangar 18 in Riverside, which was very cool. The free-standing boulder had tons of terrain and cool angles, as well as top-out problems and the surrounding walls of the gym had tons of area of lead and toprope routes. If only it wasn’t in Riverside… I bouldered a little and definitely noticed a difference in grading between this gym and the ARC – things in the ARC can be pretty stiff – V4 usually doesn’t seem so doable.

On Sunday, we decided to sleep in and relax. The Quarry is great, but sometimes it’s hard to climb from 8am-noon, that’s not exactly the least tired time of the day. We ended up in Santa Monica, first to Adventure 16 and then to a store called Lululemon Athletica that Eli had recommended. I was overwhelmed by the sheer volume of clothing items that one could wear rock climbing, but I ended up choosing an awesome pair of shorts in a lightweight, stretchy fabric and a length that should work well with my harness. I’m very excited to try them out in Charleston this coming weekend!





3 responses

5 08 2008

Also of note is the Extension to Ground Zero which is supposedly 11c. It felt a bit easier than Redrum, and even though the crimp cruxes fitted my style it felt more like 11b. The extension, which is called Automatic Static, diagonals up and left from the anchors for 7 or 8 bolts on vertical to slightly slabby terrain. Rope management is key so I suggest a long draw on the 2nd to last bolt on ground zero. Once you get the first bolt clipped on the extension down climb and unclip the last draw on ground zero. This should allow your rope to run freely from the long draw to the first draw on the extension. The extension has 2 mini cruxes and you can lower with a 70meter rope.

– Luke

12 08 2008
Kate C

Congrats! An 11c redpoint is definitely something to be really proud of!

And Lulumon makes great clothes. I drool over the Athleta catalog each season. Great stuff for climbing and yoga.

13 08 2008

Thanks! I just wore my Lululemon shorts last weekend and they were amazing. I would have gone right back and gotten a second pair if they weren’t so expensive and only come in 2 other colors, which were both whitish – not good for wearing outdoors I think.

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