Hard Boulder Problems in California

11 02 2008

Inspired by a discussion on ClimbingNarc I decided to try to start a list of all problems in California V12 or harder. This list is not complete so if you have any info on more problems or about FA’s let me know. This is similar to a list of hard climbs in Colorado and an older list of problems in New England. BetaBase also keeps an online list of all the problems in Yosemite.


Grade Name First Ascent Area
V15? Rasta Man Vibration Sit TBD Buttermilks
V14 The Manadala SDS Tony Lamiche Buttermilks
V14 The Mandala Direct SDS
Paul Robinson Buttermilks
V14 Goldfish Trombone Sam Edwards Happies
V13/14 The Swarm Matt Birch Beehive Boulders
V13/14 Iron Resolution Chris Sharma Joshua Tree
V13/14 Somewhere in Time Matt Birch Tramway
V13 The Beautiful and the Dammed Kevin Jorgenson Bardini Boulders
V13 Black Mamba Dan Mills Tramway
V13 Dominated Chris Sharma Yosemite
V13 Spectre Dave Graham Pollen Grains
V13 True North Sean McColl Buttermilks
V13 The Oracle Sean McColl Buttermilks
V13 Direction Shawn Diamond Buttermilks
V13 The Buttermilker SDS Chris Sharma Buttermilks
V13 Bang On Ben Moon Black Mountain
V12 Sharma’s Traverse Chris Sharma Happies
V12 Kill On Sight Sean McColl Happies
V12 Bubba Lobotomy Dan Mills Happies
V12 The Buttermilker Chris Sharma Buttermilks
V12 Xavier’s Roof Tony Lamiche Buttermilks
V12 Rastaman Vibration Jared Roth Buttermilks
V12 Evilution Jason Kehl Buttermilks
V12? Haroun and the Sea of Stories Matt Wilder Buttermilks
V12 A Maze of Death Dave Graham Buttermilks
V12 Baburre Fred Nicole Buttermilks
V12 The Mystery Shawn Diamond Buttermilks
Form Destroyer Dave Graham Beehive Boulders
V12 A Scanner Darkly Dave Graham Get Carter
V12 Michael Caine SDS
  Get Carter
V12 The Mandala Chris Sharma Buttermilks
V12 The Mandala Direct Jeff Sillcox Buttermilks
V12 Yabo Roof Tommy Caldwell Yosemite
V12 Dominator Jerry Moffatt
V12 Chimera Paul Barraza
V12 Scissors for Lefty
Randy Puro
V12 Stick It, Static
Randy Puro Yosemite
V12 Park Life
Tim Clifford
V12 Shadow Warrior Matt Wilder Yosemite
V12 The Creeping Wingate   Mt Baldy
V12 Devil’s Dance Dan Mills Tramway
V12 Regeneration Dave Struthers  Black Mountain
V12 Roasted and Raw
  Joshua Tree





7 responses

12 02 2008
Climbing Narc

Beautiful & Damned – Kevin Jorgeson
Spectre – Dave Graham

13 02 2008

did chris get the fa of dominated?
i had no idea he did it.
also what is the difference between mandala direct and the sds?

14 02 2008

According to BetaBase Chris got the FA of Domintated so that where I got that info.

Here is the FA of the Manadala Direct. http://www.wadedavid.com/Videos/mandala.mov

It finishes right where most people had gone left at the top. It is supposed to be the same grade, V12, as the Mandala.

Paul Rob’s creation The Mandala Direct Assis I believe is the SDS of the mandala to the direct finish. Assis is French for seated.

26 02 2008

what about the Sharma Linkup at Mortar Rock? I think its ungraded and still has yet to see a second send.

31 03 2008

heround FA matt wilder
direction FA shawn diamond
baburre FA fred nicole

31 03 2008

why is the swarm listed as v13/v14?
birch called it v14 and graham agreed enough said. did woods downrate this one of birch’s too?

eh, its a funny thing to put beal’s problem up there.. v12 slab? very rare. did he even actually call it “V12”? no repeats.. i dunno.

i think Mccoll put up another v12 in the slow dance cave called “the asset”. it is a right exit to slowdance.

why put the sit to rastaman up there? no one has done it. if this list consisted of open projects, it would be very long

1 04 2008

It was Landman who said it was 13/14. Woods only said it was “hardest in bishop”. I thought consensus was that it was easy V14 thought thats a funny thought… P-Rob also did it very quickly thus V13/V14.

Dan said V11 or harder and one of the hardest things he had done, possibly V12 thus the ? next to the grade. It is on the list since he is a friend and to inspire someone to go do a 2nd ascent.

I must have missed the asset from Sean’s killer trip to bishop. Thanks for the heads up.

The reason for this list was because I couldn’t find one for cali which I though was strange since we have a bunch of tough problems. I thought the Rastaman proj was about to go down so it made the list.

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